Two Weeks at the Edge of the Map

I’m writing this from a fourth-floor window in Funchal, looking at an Atlantic that has nothing on the other side of it for about 950 kilometres. The next landmass west…

The Porto-Pinhão Line

I have a rule: one rental per country. Not a car collection — a deliberate driving experience, the single road that a country does better than anywhere else. Austria got…

The Batumi Stress Test

I gave Batumi ten days. The pitch was simple: a Black Sea port city with a skyline that looks like it was designed by three different architects who never spoke…

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