The Riverbed and the Ranking

Valencia is the consensus pick. Ask any nomad forum where to go in Spain and you get the same answer within two replies, usually with the same three reasons: cheap,…

Two Weeks at the Edge of the Map

I’m writing this from a fourth-floor window in Funchal, looking at an Atlantic that has nothing on the other side of it for about 950 kilometres. The next landmass west…

The Porto-Pinhão Line

I have a rule: one rental per country. Not a car collection — a deliberate driving experience, the single road that a country does better than anywhere else. Austria got…

The Batumi Stress Test

I gave Batumi ten days. The pitch was simple: a Black Sea port city with a skyline that looks like it was designed by three different architects who never spoke…

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