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Recent posts

Travel

The River Was Here First

The train from Ourense takes thirty-one minutes to reach the river, and for most of them you cannot see it. You pass through cuttings and short tunnels and stands of oak, the carriage swaying. Then the land opens on the left and falls away. And there, a long way down — greener than it has any reason to be, moving without hurry — is the Sil. I had given the...
Food

Lisbon Eats On Its Feet

Travel

The Lagoon Has Its Own Hour

Food

The City That Kept the Tripe

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