How Many Days Do You Need in Lisbon?

For most first-time visitors, three to four full days in Lisbon is a sensible starting point. Three days give you room to explore several distinct parts of the city without…

You Never Take More Than a Third

At four o’clock Jerez does not exist. Every shutter on Calle Larga is down. The heat comes up off the paving and sits at chest height, and the only thing…

The Older Cave Is Open

I came to Cantabria to look at a room I would not be allowed to enter. It seemed a strange thing to build a week around, and I built the…

The Rent Was Paid in Octopus

Ourense is the only province in Galicia without a coastline. It also cooks the best octopus in Galicia. Nobody here treats those two sentences as a contradiction, and getting over…

The Riverbed and the Ranking

Valencia is the consensus pick. Ask any nomad forum where to go in Spain and you get the same answer within two replies, usually with the same three reasons: cheap,…

The River Was Here First

The train from Ourense takes thirty-one minutes to reach the river, and for most of them you cannot see it. You pass through cuttings and short tunnels and stands of…

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