Coimbra Doesn’t Raise Its Voice

The train from Porto arrived just after dawn. I walked up the hill with my bag cutting a little into my shoulder, and by the time I reached the old…

Where the Road Runs Out

The air thinned somewhere past the third tunnel. I noticed it the way you notice silence — not when it starts, but when you realize it’s been there for a…

A City That Holds You Loosely

You’d like it here. I keep thinking that. Not because of the views — though the views are absurd, the kind where you stop on a bridge and forget you…

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